10 Weird But Useful Fabric Hacks for Sewists – Part 2

Did you catch Part 1 of our blog post on weird but genuinely useful fabric hacks? If not, you can start here.

In this follow-up, we’re continuing the fun with five more unusual tricks to help you care for and extend the life of your fabric stash—especially if you're working with thrifted materials, deadstock, or trickier synthetics. 

6. The Ancient Art of Linen Burnishing

Before fabric softener sheets and fancy steamers, there was glass. Or polished wood. Or smooth bone. Linen burnishing—also known as beetling—was a centuries-old finishing technique used to soften and add lustre to freshly woven linen. It’s meditative, chemical-free, and (once you get the hang of it) deeply satisfying.

Here’s how it works: after washing and drying, linen is laid flat and pressed with a hard, smooth object using consistent pressure. This friction flattens the fibres and polishes the surface, making the fabric feel smoother, drapier, and just... nicer.

What’s really happening: Linen fibres are naturally stiff and can stand up on their own like little straws. Burnishing gently crushes and flattens them, aligning the fibres more tightly. The result? A subtle sheen and a buttery-soft feel, all without adding any product or moisture.

How to do it:
- Start with clean, damp (not wet) linen.
- Use a glass jar, rolling pin, polished wooden spoon, or even the curved edge of a sturdy mug.
- Press firmly and glide in one direction across the fabric—like you’re rolling out dough.
- Repeat section by section until the fabric feels noticeably smoother.

When it shines:
- When you buy linen or flax blends that feel stiffer than expected. This is especially common with deadstock or untreated fabric.
- After pre-washing deadstock linen or flax blends that feel a little rough.
- On handmade napkins, pillowcases, or sewing projects where softness matters.
- For sewists who love a good fabric ritual.

Good to know: This doesn’t work well on stretchy or textured fabrics. Stick to plain weave linen or cotton-linen blends.

Bonus tip: Want even more shine? Some traditional weavers would sprinkle a tiny bit of water mixed with starch before burnishing to create a crisp, almost papery effect.

7. Boiling Wool to Felt It on Purpose

Everyone knows the tragedy of shrinking a favourite wool sweater in the wash. But what if we told you that same disaster could actually be a design tool? Felting wool on purpose is a technique that dates back centuries—and it’s still one of the most satisfying transformations in sewing.

Felting happens when wool fibres—which are covered in microscopic scales—are exposed to heat, moisture, and agitation. The scales latch onto each other, tangle, and tighten. The result? A dense, fuzzy, matted fabric that doesn’t fray and holds its shape beautifully.

Why you’d want to do this:
- To repurpose a thin, scratchy wool into something warmer and softer
- To create material for slippers, bags, mittens, or winter accessories
- To stabilize loosely woven wool fabrics before cutting

How to do it:
- Choose a 100% wool fabric or sweater (not superwash—it won’t felt).
- Cut your piece slightly larger than you need (it will shrink!).
- Place it in hot water—either on the stovetop or in a top-load washing machine on hot.
- Add soap (optional, but helps speed up the felting).
- Agitate. Stir with a wooden spoon or run it through the wash with jeans or towels.
- Check often and pull it out when it’s firm, dense, and slightly shrunken.

What to watch for:
- Felting is permanent. You can't undo it. Once those fibres mesh together, it's a structural change, not just surface-level.
- Always test a swatch first. Not all wools felt the same.
- The best results come from loosely knit, 100% wool sweaters. Avoid superwash wool—it's been treated to resist felting.
- A small percentage of nylon or spandex (1–2%) may still allow felting, but the results can be uneven. Acrylic, however, does not felt—it’s a synthetic fibre and won’t respond to heat and agitation the same way. If you’re working with a wool-acrylic blend, check the fibre content. Anything below 70% wool probably won’t felt well—or at all. The higher the synthetic content, the less effective it will be.
- This works best on knits, especially sweaters, but can also be done with some woven wool fabrics (like suiting or wool gauze). Just expect a different texture and tighter finish.
- Felting is permanent. You can’t undo it.
- It may shrink by 20–50%, depending on the fibre and method.

Good uses: Upcycled wool sweaters from thrift stores, leftover merino scraps, deadstock suiting wool that feels too delicate or loose for your project.

Bonus tip: While it’s still warm and damp, shape the felt into your final form—like moulding a bowl, slipper, or pouch. It’ll hold that shape as it dries.

8. Salt to Minimize Shedding and Dye Bleed

This one sounds like an old wives' tale, but there’s real chemistry behind it. If you’ve ever washed a brand-new cotton flannel and had it come out looking like a lint bomb went off—or worse, turned the rest of your laundry pink—salt might just be your unexpected ally.

Why it works: Salt contains sodium ions that can help tighten the structure of natural fibres (like cotton) and stabilize certain types of dye, especially direct dyes used in low-cost, mass-produced fabrics. It doesn’t make colours permanent, but it can slow down bleeding and reduce fuzz in the first wash.

How to use it:
- Add 1 tablespoon of table salt to a bucket of cold water or a full wash cycle.
- Gently agitate your fabric and let it soak for 15–30 minutes before rinsing.
- For especially sheddy fabrics, toss in a 1/4 cup of white vinegar during the rinse cycle to help close the fibres and neutralize any lingering detergent.

When to use it:
- First wash of flannel, brushed cotton, or anything that looks like it might shed.
- Fabrics with rich, saturated colours that weren’t pre-treated.
- Mystery thrifted fabric that feels like it might cause problems.

What not to expect:
It won’t fix a poorly dyed fabric permanently.
It won’t magically turn non-colourfast fabric into something you can throw in with whites.

Good to know: This trick is more helpful with plant-based fibres (like cotton, linen fabric and hemp). These fabrics are more likely to bleed or shed in the wash, and salt helps tighten their fibres.

Salt won’t do much for synthetics like polyester or acrylic—they're dyed with disperse dyes that don’t respond to salt. If you're working with synthetic fabrics, a better option is to wash them inside a mesh laundry bag or on a gentle cycle with a splash of white vinegar in the rinse. This helps reduce static and can slightly soften the texture.

If you're unsure what your fabric is made from, check the label or do a quick burn test (safely!) to help identify it before pre-washing. Bonus tip: If you're pre-washing a whole batch of fabric for a project, do it by colour family—even with salt. Red flannel is especially notorious for bleeding.

9. Hair Conditioner for Scratchy Synthetics

If you’ve ever sewn with tulle, netting, or bargain-bin satin, you know the itch is real. Some synthetic fabrics can feel stiff, scratchy, or straight-up plasticky—especially those destined for linings, costumes, or cosplay. But before you toss that fabric or double up on lining, try softening it with a bit of hair conditioner.

Why it works: Most hair conditioners contain softening agents (like silicone derivatives or fatty alcohols) that help smooth and coat individual fibres. When applied to synthetic fabric, especially the looser-weave or mesh types, they can help reduce roughness without leaving a greasy residue.

How to do it:
- Mix 1 tablespoon of regular hair conditioner with about 4 cups of lukewarm water.
- Soak your fabric in the solution for 10–15 minutes.
- Gently rinse with cold water and air dry flat.

Best for:
- Tulle
- Netting
- Costume satin or acetate
- Sheer synthetics used in cosplay or special occasion wear

Avoid on: Natural fibres (they won’t benefit), or anything heat-sensitive you plan to iron right away. Also avoid leave-in conditioners or anything with added oils or fragrance.

Bonus tip: If you’re unsure how your fabric will react, test on a small corner or scrap first. You want softness—not slipperiness.

Good to know: This doesn’t permanently change the fabric’s structure. The softening effect can last through a few wears or washes, but it will gradually fade—especially if washed with detergent. If the fabric starts to feel scratchy again, you can repeat the soak as needed. Most people find one treatment enough for occasional-use garments like costumes.

If you’ve already sewn the fabric into a garment, it’s generally best to pre-treat the lining fabric before sewing. Once it's stitched into another garment—especially one with interfacing or delicate outer fabrics—soaking the whole thing in a conditioner bath is risky. Moisture can loosen fusible interfacing, distort seams, or interact unpredictably with other fibre types.

If you did pre-condition the lining before sewing and are now washing the full garment normally, it’s okay to skip the conditioner in future washes. The fabric may gradually return to its original feel over time, but the softening usually lasts through several wears. For special garments, a re-treatment is optional and only really necessary if the fabric becomes noticeably stiff again.

In short: pre-condition before sewing when possible, and skip full-garment soaking after it's constructed—especially if interfacing is involved.

10. Vodka Spray for Deodorizing Fabric Without Washing

You picked up the perfect thrifted fabric, but it smells... off. Maybe it’s musty. Maybe it’s smoky. Maybe it just smells like it’s been sitting in someone’s basement for a decade. You don’t want to soak it yet, you’re nervous about shrinkage, or maybe it’s already sewn into something you can’t throw in the wash.

Enter: vodka.

Why it works: Vodka contains ethanol, which evaporates quickly and breaks down odour-causing compounds. It doesn’t just mask smells like a fragrance spray—it actually neutralizes them. And because it evaporates cleanly, it won’t leave residue or stains.

How to use it:
- Mix 1 part plain vodka (the cheaper the better) with 2 parts water in a spray bottle.
- Lightly mist the fabric—don’t soak.
- Hang or lay flat to air dry completely.

Best for:
- Vintage or thrifted fabrics
- Wool or rayon that shrinks easily
- Garments that can’t be washed often (like blazers or coats)
- Fabric stashes that have been in storage

What not to do:
Avoid spraying near open flames (obviously).
Don’t use flavoured or coloured vodka—stick to plain.

Bonus tip: This also works inside lined garments you’ve already sewn. Turn the piece inside out and give the lining a gentle mist. Let dry fully before wearing or storing.

Why These Hacks Matter

At FABCYCLE, we believe in giving fabric the longest, most creative life possible. Whether you're turning deadstock denim into a waxed lunch bag, softening thrifted satin with conditioner, or just tossing your tights in the freezer for fun, each of these hacks speaks to the maker mindset we love: curious, resourceful, and joyfully experimental.

We’re all about helping you care for your fabrics with less waste, more creativity, and a bit of weirdness along the way. Because the truth is: caring for your fabric is part of the making process. When you soften it, prep it, press it, or fix it—you’re building a relationship with it. One that can lead to fewer mistakes, more comfort, and garments you actually want to wear.

If you’re a hobby sewist, DIY fashion lover, or just someone with a growing stash, we hope this list gave you new ways to look at the fabric you already have.

You don’t always need more—you just need to treat what you’ve got a little differently.

And if you're looking for a way to remember these tips and care tricks, don’t forget to log your fabric in Sewjo—our mobile app built by FABCYCLE to help hobby sewists like you keep track of your stash, your projects, and everything in between. From washing notes to pre-treatment ideas, Sewjo makes it easier to stay organized so your favourite fabrics never go to waste.

Not familiar with Sewjo? It’s a mobile app built by FABCYCLE to help you digitally organize your sewing materials, track your stash, and stay inspired. You can download it now and start building your fabric library—complete with care notes, project ideas, and anything else you want to remember before you start cutting.